Erect-crested penguins at Antipodes Island (by **Jordan Shand**)

There’s a place unlike anywhere else on the planet - a location so remote, wild and unique that you feel like you’re transported to a mythical landscape conjured up by legendary directors James Cameron or Peter Jackson.

Here, you will find other-worldly plants shaped like giant pink broccoli growing among similarly alienesque mega-herb flora. Along the coast, colossal waves crash against mist-shrouded cliffs, where thousands of giant birds perch high over the ocean, getting ready to spend months at sea.

But you won’t find this place on the silver screen. Rather it’s located hundreds of kilometres south of New Zealand, in the NZ Subantarctic Islands. The uninhabited island group, where birds, seals, and sea lions rule, is made up of the Snares, Bounty Islands, Antipodes Islands, Auckland Islands, and Campbell Island.

When I was invited by Heritage Expeditions as a guest artist to join them on their ’Galapagos of the Southern Ocean‘ journey, I have to admit that at first I was quite scared. The idea of spending 13 days sailing in the Southern Ocean – notorious for its ferocious seas and 7m swells – was very far out of my usual comfort zone. Knowing that this was a once-in-a-lifetime opportunity to visit this UNESCO World Heritage Site, there was no way I was going to let fear hold me back. Also, my brother Jordan would be accompanying me, and so this would be a special trip to experience together.

We loved seeing how different the islands were, with each having their own unique landscapes, animals and plants. Some islands we explored by inflatable Zodiac boats, cruising around the shoreline with inquisitive fur seals in tow, bobbing up through the seaweed to check us out, and penguins porpoising alongside us too.

One memorable moment saw us entering a cave at Antipodes Island, where the water was a magical, bright sapphire blue. Antarctic terns fluttered around as we were treated to a goosebump-inducing improptu opera performance by one of the passengers – with the natural amphitheatre of the cave echoing her beautiful voice.

Other islands we explored on foot, walking through ancient rātā forests and open landscapes with massive fields of megaherbs and other intriguing plants I never knew existed. We had close encounters (at a respectful distance) with hoiho yellow-eyed penguin, erect-crested penguin, kākāriki, Auckland Island teal, miromiro tomtit, tūturiwhatu banded dotterels, rāpoka New Zealand sea lions, and many other special creatures unique to the islands. We saw hundreds of Snares crested penguins hopping up a steep and sheer rock face, practically mountaineering to their breeding grounds at the top of one of the Snares Islands.

The unique ecosystems of the Subantarctics are a haven for seabirds, who use the islands as a nesting location and home base for their flights around the world. We saw many species of toroa, including Buller’s and Salvin’s albatross, and other seabirds effortlessly gliding past the ship, hundreds of kilometres out to sea. Visiting in January, we were fortunate to witness the southern royal albatross sitting on their nests high up on the top of Campbell Island, and also to see toroa pango light-mantled sooty albatross chicks in the nest, with their fluffy-marshmallow-looking jackets. Witnessing in person the scale of an albatross stretching its wings is something I’ll never forget; photos just don’t do them justice.

‘Subantarctic Soaring’ artwork (Antipodes albatross) inspired by a reference photo taken by **Jordan Shand** on the trip. See artwork and more of its details **here**.

Other highlights of the voyage were the on-board social activities, making new friends with like-minded nature enthusiasts, and hearing daily lectures from experts on conservation and the history of the islands. Heritage Expeditions is a family-owned and run business, with biologists, ornithologists, naturalists, and botanists on their staff, so it was amazing to spend this time with people with such a combined wealth of conservation knowledge.

For the brave few, we even took a ritualistic “polar plunge” off the side of the ship into the freezing ocean, to great cheers and laughter. The on-board doctor (Dr Gary) also doubled as some of the entertainment, with the occasional sing-along to his ukulele playing. There was the perfect balance of adventure, fun, learning, and camaraderie.

During this trip, I learned that some of the best experiences in life will lie well outside your comfort zone, and you just have to take a deep breath and dive in head first. Or even feet-first, for the polar plunge!

|To find out more about Heritage Expeditions, see them on Instagram and Facebook, and www.heritage-expeditions.com.